Home Owner Tips

Tip

Check the cabinets under your garbage disposal frequently for leaks. Your disposal has flanges, gaskets and pipe connections which can be sources of leaks that can lead to mold and pest infestations.

Routine Care

Clean disposer by grinding up ice cubes

The procedure sharpens the cutting blade and cleans out built-up debris and scale.

Timing: February (yearly)

How To

The following is the procedure for cleaning your garbage disposal:

• Place ice cubes in the disposal, grind them up, and flush with cold water. This will help sharpen the blades and remove buildup from the inside of the disposer.
• Pour a cup of vinegar into the sink drain and let it sit for about one hour, then flush down with very hot water This will help to remove scale build-up.

NEVER put your hand in the unit. Even if the motor doesn’t accidentally start up, the cutting jaws are sharp enough to cut your fingers.

Benefits

The benefits of this task are that it helps to ensure the smooth operation of your garbage disposal, and helps to reduce the chance of having plumbing problems.

Costs

 

Originally posted at http://www.petermuehlbronner.home-wizard.com/tip/tip_gd_2

Cooking with a microwave oven is easy to take for granted. Just put food in and push a button, right? Or is there more to it? This article and video gives you 66 tips for the best ways to cook using your microwave. So let’s go through each of them now:

 

1. The most common “cold spot” for a microwave is in the center of it, so arrange evenly sized portions of food spaced in a ring around the center for more even cooking. Or if food happens to be different sizes, place the thicker portions toward the outer edges.
2. Salt on the surface of food tends to attract microwaves, which can dry out the outer layer. So if salt is desired, sprinkle it on the food after removing it from the microwave
3. Add about one-third less water when cooking recipes in your microwave versus your stove, since microwave cooking takes less time and therefore results in less evaporation.
4. Microwave radiation can only penetrate about 1 to 1-1/2 inches into your food, and then the heat is conducted inward. This is why keeping even sizes, proper placement, and standing times are so important when microwave cooking.
5. Using containers that are round or oval in shape can help food heat more evenly. With square or rectangular shaped containers, the corners tend to receive more energy, which can cause food to overcook in these areas (helpful accessory: round microwaveable containers).
6. To keep foods like sandwiches, french fries, bread rolls, etc. from getting soggy when heating in your microwave, you should wrap them in a dry paper towel to absorb the moisture when they are being heated (see costs and reviews of paper towels).
7. When cooking on any other power level than HIGH, the oven cooks by cycling power on and off, so the energy has a chance to move through the food without overcooking.
8. Using your microwave for 100 hours costs only about $7.00, compared to about $70.00 for a conventional oven.
9. Most recipes are developed for use in a 700-watt oven. If yours is a different wattage, here is a chart that will convert cooking times for you: http://www.microwavecookingforone.com/Charts/
10. Never pile food one on top of the other. Food cooks more evenly when it is spaced apart in a microwave.
11. Contrary to popular belief, microwaves don’t actually cook food from the inside out.
12. Microwaved foods should be allowed time afterward for the heat to continue to spread and dissipate. This is called ‘standing time’, but it is actually when up to 20% additional cooking occurs. This is especially important when cooking large or dense foods.
13. Microwaving works best with foods that cook well in moist heat: chicken, fish, ground meat, vegetables, sauces, and soups.
14. Pay careful attention to arranging the food, stirring, rotating, and standing time instructions in microwave recipes.
15. Portions that are about equal in size and shape will cook more uniformly in your microwave.
16. To add moisture to leftovers, wrap them in a damp paper towel when reheating them in your microwave.
17. Using your microwave versus your oven in summer can especially save energy because it does not require pre-heating, cooks your food quickly, and cooks without heating up your entire kitchen.
18. You can determine the wattage of your microwave, according to the University of Tennessee, by placing 1 cup of lukewarm tap water in it, and then with it uncovered, turn your microwave on it’s highest power setting, and then watch until the water starts to boil. If boiling occurs in less than three minutes, the wattage of your microwave is likely 600 to 700; three to four minutes, the wattage is likely 500 to 600; more than four minutes, the oven wattage is likely less than 500 watts.
19. You should defrost foods separately from cooking them in your microwave. Defrosting in a microwave generates significant moisture, which needs to be cleared out of your oven before you start cooking.
20. Microwaving with a cover holds in steam which tenderizes the food, shortens cooking time, and cooks more evenly. Remember to not allow the cover or plastic wrap to come in contact with the hot food, and be sure to leave an opening to allow excess steam to escape (see costs and reviews of: microwavable covers; microwave-safe plastic wraps).
21. One of the advantages of using your microwave is that it does not need to be pre-heated.
22. Use a high setting (100 percent power) for soups, beverages, fruits, vegetables, fish, ground meat, and poultry.
23. Use a medium-high setting (70 percent power) for simmering stews.
24. Use a medium setting (50 percent power) for baking bread, cakes and muffins, and cooking less tender cuts of meats.
25. Remove food from packaging before defrosting in your microwave.
26. When cooking in a microwave a good rule of thumb is that most foods require 6 minutes per pound to cook, but seafood will take less time. However, you will need to adjust this for the particular wattage of your microwave.
27. You can drain food of fat as it cooks in your microwave by placing it in between two paper towels.
28. You do not have to add oil to keep the food from sticking to the pan when cooking in a microwave because foods do not tend to stick in the moist heat of microwaving.
29. Avoid food spatters by placing paper towels, microwave-safe plastic wrap, or wax paper over the top of open cookware. But be sure to vent plastic wrap so steam can escape.
30. Choose a microwave-safe container slightly larger than the dish otherwise required for cooking the recipe in a conventional oven.
31. If the food has been cooked with a cover, leave it covered for the standing time while heat spreads throughout the food. If it was cooked uncovered, then after it is removed add a loose covering of foil to retain the heat during the standing time.
32. If you would cover it in the regular oven, then you would typically cover it in your microwave too.
33. If your microwave does not have a turntable, to ensure even cooking throughout your food, you should stop and shift around the food at regular intervals, especially when cooking larger portions of food.
34. Many recipes and packaging labels provide a cooking time that is expressed as a range (for example: cook 3-5 min. on HIGH). To avoid overcooking, start with the lowest time shown in a recipe, since you can always cook it longer if needed.
35. Avoid coating meat with flour if you will be adding liquid for cooking, as the coatings will become soggy.
36. Do not cook large cuts of meat on high power (100%). Large cuts of meat should be cooked on medium power (50%) for longer periods. This allows heat to reach the center without overcooking outer areas.
37. Drain fat from hamburgers by microwaving them in a plastic colander placed on top of a dish or bowl.
38. Let foods such as cakes with baking powder in them stand a few minutes before cooking to allow the leavening agents to work.
39. Potato chips (or crackers, cereals, etc.) that have lost their crunch can be placed on paper towels in the microwave oven and heated briefly. The paper towels will absorb moisture and restore the chips to crispness.
40. Remove large bones from meat before microwaving it because the dense bone may keep the area around it from cooking.
41. Vegetables cook best if they are cut into pieces of about equal size.
42. When cooking potatoes or other thick-skinned foods such as squash, tomatoes, or fruit in your microwave, be sure to pierce the skin to release steam.
43. You can thaw frozen juices by removing the metal lid, placing the cardboard cylinder package in a microwavable container and heating on high power for approximately 30 seconds for 6-ounce containers, and 45 seconds for 12-ounce containers.
44. If you are cooking an assortment of vegetables, arrange large or tougher vegetables (such as carrots, cauliflower, broccoli etc.) toward the outside of the plate and small or tender ones (peas, mushrooms, etc.) in the center so they finish cooking at the same time.
45. Use as little water as possible when microwaving vegetables, to help them retain as much water-soluble nutrients as possible.
46. There’s no need to rinse or add any water when using frozen vegetables, as they already have enough frozen moisture in them.
47. To get more juice from your oranges or lemons, before squeezing them, heat them in your microwave for 1-2 minutes.
48. You can cook corn on the cob in your microwave by first rinsing the ears in cold water with the husks on. Heat in the microwave on high for up to six minutes for two ears and up to eight minutes for four.
49. A cake cooked in your microwave rises higher than in a conventional oven.
50. Add cheese and other toppings near the end of cooking to keep the top from becoming tough or soggy.
51. An omelet is best cooked at 50% power (medium). If cooked at 100% power (high), the edges may be done before the center and become leathery by the time the whole omelet is done.
52. Don’t season vegetables with salt until after cooking them in your microwave. Salting beforehand could leave brown spots.
53. For stamp collectors: Place a few drops of water on the stamp to be removed from the envelope. Heat in the microwave for 20 seconds and the stamp will come right off.
54. Melt chocolate squares by heating at full power for approximately 45 seconds per ounce of chocolate.
55. Milk-based foods tend to boil over, so use a larger and deeper container.
56. Soften a chilled or frozen stick of butter by reducing power to 50% and heating for approximately 40 seconds.
57. Soften a stick of butter or margarine by reducing power to 20% and heating for about 1 minute.
58. Soften hard ice cream by microwaving at 30% power. One pint will take 15 to 30 seconds; one quart, 30-45 seconds; and one-half gallon 45-60 seconds.
59. To plump dried raisins and other dried fruits, measure one cup of dried fruit and sprinkle with two tablespoons of water. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and heat on high for approximately 30 seconds.
60. To soften a box of hardened brown sugar, you can place a dampened paper towel in the box, close the box tightly, and put the whole thing in the microwave for 20 to 30 seconds on high to soften the sugar.
61. Vegetables can be steamed in the microwave in just a few minutes with no added fat. Simply chop vegetables as desired, place in a microwavable container with 1-2 Tbsp. of water and cover loosely with plastic wrap. Cook on high until soft.
62. When heating cream or sour cream, lower the power to 50-75% to help avoid curdling.
63. When peeling foods such as tomatoes or peaches, heat for 30 seconds on high, then allow to stand for 2 minutes. The peels will then slip off easily.
64. When peeling garlic or onions, snip off the ends and microwave for approximately 10 to 15 seconds to make the job easier.
65. You can make breadcrumbs in your microwave by cutting bread slices into cubes and microwaving on high until hard. You can then crush the cubes in a re-sealable plastic bag to make the breadcrumbs.
66. You can soften Jell-O that has set up too hard, by heating it in your microwave on a low power setting for a very short time.

 

SUMMARY

We hope these 66 tips have given you some helpful ideas for the best ways to cook using your microwave oven.

 

Originally Posted at: https://petermuehlbronner.home-wizard.com/articleDet/art_microwave_tips

Ever wondered where your energy dollars go in your home?

This article and video show you at-a-glance, so that you can focus on the areas that will give you the biggest bang-for-the-buck for reducing your home energy bill.

 

The pie chart below shows a typical home where your energy bills are going. The bigger the slice of the pie, the more of your energy budget is being spent on this activity.

As you can see, space heating and air conditioning together account for almost half of the energy that a typical home uses. This is why we are always reminding you to do tasks like changing your air filters, adding or checking weatherstripping, getting your annual furnace and AC tune-ups are done, etc. …. as these tasks all help you to reduce your heating and cooling costs, which are the costs that take the biggest bite out of your energy budget.

Next, you will notice that a typical home uses 14% of its energy for making hot water. And this is why we remind you of tasks like getting your annual service done on your water heater, backflushing your water heater, consider adding low-flow shower heads, and promptly fixing plumbing leaks (see types, costs, and reviews of Pipe repair kits; low-flow shower heads).

And since it runs 24-7, you can see how your refrigerator adds up to 8% of your household energy bill. This is why we remind you of tasks like vacuuming the dust off your refrigerator coils to keep its efficiency up, and checking the seals around the door for air leaks (helpful accessory: refrigerator coil cleaners).

And remember our reminders about reducing “vampire power” sources that suck electricity when appliances are turned off? This chart shows you the energy consumption of computers and televisions in your home, which are notorious electricity vampires when they are not in use. And as you can see in the note at the bottom, if you have a digital video recorder boxes, then you can add this to your list of energy vampires, and they can be one of the worst of them all (helpful accessory: digital timers; programmable wireless outlet remote controls)..

Next, with lighting being 6% of home energy use, you can see why we encourage you to use more efficient compact fluorescent and LED lights. And at 5% of your energy bill, you can see why we suggest the maintenance tasks that we do for your clothes dryer (helpful accessory: compact fluorescent bulbs; LED light bulbs).

We can go on and on, but you may just want to pause this video and look over this chart to think about what the implications are for your particular home. And then when you get our monthly reminders, hopefully, this chart will help motivate you to do the routine maintenance tasks that will help you to lower your energy bills.

 

Originally posted at http://www.petermuehlbronner.home-wizard.com/social/article/art_where_energy?fbclid=IwAR04QzvNtn0MbCpvgL_7J8Ew2gFj5j0ooZnwg9U2XMHBQgiH0D_6JwwR7pM&share=true

Overview

Decking’ is a structure that is built on the outside of your home for walking or sitting. Care for decking also includes other structures outside of your home, such as: porches, stairs, railings with bars called ‘balustrades’, trellises, gazebos, and swing sets.

Decking may be made from a variety of materials such as: softwood; hardwood; composite materials; and metal.

Routine Care

Inspect decking for deterioration

The purpose of doing this task is that a deck that has been allowed to deteriorate can cause serious injuries by allowing people to fall, trip, etc.

Timing: May (yearly)

Clean and seal deck surfaces

Cleaning and sealing your decking will help extend its useful life.

Timing: May (yearly)

How To

Inspect decking for deterioration

• Inspect all outdoor wooden structures for signs of wear and deterioration. Use a screwdriver or wood awl to probe for soft spots.
• Check the handrails, spindles, and other railing supports to ensure they can hold the weight of a large person leaning against them.
• Check the deck flooring for boards that have split, warped, or came loose.
• Check stairs by carefully applying weight on each step.
• Tighten any nuts and bolts.

Clean and seal deck surfaces

Depending on your type of wood, cleaning and sealing decks typically requires 3 steps:

Day 1: Sweep off all dirt and debris; allow surfaces to dry.

Day 2: Spray on an oxalic acid solution; allow to sit per the manufacturer’s recommendation, then hose off with water.

Day 3: Apply a good sealant.

Benefits

Maintaining Value

Appearance

Avoiding Unscheduled Repairs

Child Safety

The benefits of this task are that it maintains the appearance and extends the useful life of your decking and help reduce potential safety hazards.

Costs

The cost of inspecting the deck for deterioration is relatively low. It is estimated that this task should take about 30-60 minutes to complete, depending on the size and style of your decking. You will need a screwdriver or wood awl, a flashlight, and wrenches to complete this task.

The cost of cleaning and sealing deck surfaces is relatively high from an investment of time standpoint.

 

 

Outdoor Decking: 10 Important Areas to Check

Outdoor decking creates a great place for gathering with friends and family to enjoy your yard during nice weather. This article and video explains the 10 areas that you should inspect each year to ensure that your deck is safe and will continue to last a long time.

 

Regardless of the type of deck material that you have, each year you should do a thorough inspection of your outdoor decking to ensure that it is safe for your family and friends. Here are the ten areas that we suggest that you include as part of your annual decking inspection.

1. Check for splitting, warping and rotting.
Boards on your deck which have begun to split or warp will create tripping hazards, and further, they can be a sign that your deck is not being properly maintained for protection against moisture. Lack of protection from moisture allows the wood to swell and then shrink, which leads to splitting and warping. If you see splitting and warping this could mean that your wood does not have the proper stain/sealant (and we’ll be discussing how to do a simple “Splash Test” later), or it could mean that you do not have proper drainage of water away from your deck. But if left un-repaired, this situation could result in the wood deteriorating to the point where it affects the structural integrity of your deck, creating a significant safety problem for you. When you are doing your inspection, use a strong screwdriver or wood awl to explore any soft areas for wood rot, and keep an eye out especially for any signs of bugs boring into your wood.

2. Look for signs of mold and mildew.
Mold, mildew, and rot can be caused by a number of factors. It could be from water not draining properly from your deck, or it can be caused by the type of oil-based stain that you are using, which actually acts as a food source for molds and algae. In addition to being unsightly, mold and mildew can create slipping hazards and can lead to rotting that can ruin your deck.

3. Check water drainage around your deck.
Sealing or staining your deck will provide some protection of your decking again moisture, but without proper drainage of water away from your deck, your deck can still be damaged by moisture. You will want to be sure that your decking has the proper pitch to keep water from standing on your boards. And you will want to be sure that roof gutters are not blocked and allowing water to splash onto your deck. Also, you will want to be sure that the ground underneath your deck is graded properly to have water drain away from your deck.

4. Conduct a “Splash Test.”
For wooden decks, a “splash test” is a simple test to see if your wood is being properly protected against moisture. All you need to do is to splash some water on your deck boards, and then wait 15 minutes to see if the water beads up, or if it absorbs into the wood. If it absorbs into your wood, then your deck needs to be re-sealed / re-stained to give it the necessary protection against moisture.

5. Check for loose nails or screws on the deck.
Walk around your deck with a hammer (or screwdriver if your boards are screwed down), and fix any places where the nails or screws have started to come up. Loose nails or screws create tripping and safety hazards (see costs and reviews of hammers).

6. Check railings/ balustrades.
An important safety feature of your deck is its railings and balustrades. You should check all of them to be sure they are still strong and firmly attached. Any that are loose should be fixed immediately.

7. Check support posts.
Check for any for loose connections between posts and the deck’s beams. Tighten any bolts as needed.

8. Check flashing and ledger boards.
Flashing is the sheet metal where your deck meets the walls of your home, and it is there to deflect water to keep it away from the ledger boards which attach your deck to your house. Repair or re-caulk any damaged flashing, and if you can get under your deck, check your ledger boards for bolts which need to be tightened, signs of rotting, etc.

9. Check the electrical sockets on the deck.
If you have outdoor electrical sockets near your deck, these should all be protected by ground fault interrupters (“GFI”). You should press the buttons on the GFI to test that they are operating properly, and if not, they should be immediately repaired.

10. Check trees hanging over the deck.
And finally, if you have trees overhanging your deck, you might want to consider cutting back their limbs to help reduce sap stains and reducing the risks of limbs falling down on your deck.

SUMMARY

Hopefully, this article and video have helped you to understand how to inspect your outdoor decking to ensure that it will be safe for your family and friends and that it will continue to last for a long time.

 

Originally posted at http://www.petermuehlbronner.home-wizard.com/idea/DKG_10

Idea

Conduct a “do-it-yourself” audit by looking for opportunities to increase insulation around your home.

Routine Care

Conduct energy audit

An energy audit can help find ways to save you money on your energy costs.

The recommended changes from an energy audit can range from no-cost adjustments, to changes that require investments that payback savings over several years.

Timing: July (every 5 years)

How To

A detailed energy audit should be conducted by a trained professional, who has experience in evaluating how energy is used and can be conserved.

The types of things they should look at include:

• Evaluate the cost-effectiveness of energy saving devices such as programmable thermostats, low-flow shower heads, water heater wrap kits, attic fans, etc.
• Evaluate your appliances for cost-effective opportunities to replace them with higher-efficiency models.
• Evaluate your insulation and windows for heat loss ratings.
• Evaluate replacing light fixtures and light bulbs with higher efficiency types.
• Develop recommendations for reducing operating costs such as reducing the temperature setting on your water heater, doing laundry during off-peak times, etc.
• Use a ‘blower door’ and an infrared device to detect sources of heat and cooling losses around your home.
• You should shop around to find a service provider with sophisticated tools and techniques for analyzing your specific home for energy savings.

Benefits

The benefits of this task can provide significant energy savings depending on the age of your home, your cost of energy, and the number of energy-saving steps that are available for your home.

Costs

 

Originally posted at http://www.petermuehlbronner.home-wizard.com/tip/tip_eaud_1

Overview

Fire Extinguishers are portable canisters that are filled with special chemicals that are designed to smother certain types of fires. Fire extinguishers are the first line of defense against small fires. A small fire can grow into a big fire in just a matter of seconds.

There are four basic types of household Fire Extinguishers: Type A: for use on fires involving combustible materials such as wood, cloth and paper; Type B: for use on flammable liquid fires, including kitchen grease; Type C: for use in fires involving energized electrical equipment; and Type ABC: for use on all of types of fires mentioned here.

Routine Care

Inspect fire extinguishers

Properly maintained fire extinguishers can be used to contain a small fire thereby keeping damage to a minimum.

Timing: October (yearly)

How To

Fire extinguisher inspections include:

• Check pressure gauge to ensure a full charge.
• Check that the nozzle isn’t clogged by insects debris, etc.
• Shake the extinguisher so that chemicals do not become packed.
• Check that hanger is securely fastened and that everyone knows the location.
• Make sure all fire extinguishers are accessible and not buried under other items.

Note: Do not discharge the extinguisher to test if it is working, as this will empty the unit.

Benefits

The benefits of this task are relatively high. Doing this task helps to ensure that your extinguishers will work properly in a fire emergency.

Costs

The cost of this task is very low. It is estimated that this task should only take about 30 minutes to complete, and the task is relatively easy to do. No specialized tools are required.

 

 

Choosing the Right Fire Extinguisher

Kitchen appliances, garage liquids, electrical equipment, kids playing . . . There is no shortage of possible ignition sources in your home. But do you have fire extinguishers in your kitchen, garage, and workshop? And as important, are they the correct type for your home?

Below we will discuss: the different types of fire extinguishers, choosing the right one for your home, and how to use a fire extinguisher.

The Different Types of Fire Extinguishers

Fire extinguishers are divided into five categories, based on different types of fires that they are designed to fight. Each fire extinguisher also has a numerical rating that serves as a guide for the amount of fire the extinguisher can handle (see costs and reviews of abc fire extinguishers). The higher the number, the more fire-fighting power. The following is a quick guide to the different types of fire extinguishers:

Class A extinguishers are for ordinary combustible materials such as paper, wood, cardboard, and most plastics. The numerical rating on these types of extinguishers indicates the amount of water it holds and the amount of fire it can extinguish.

Class B fires involve flammable or combustible liquids such as gasoline, kerosene, grease, and oil. The numerical rating for class B extinguishers indicates the approximate number of square feet of fire it can extinguish.

Class C fires involve electrical equipment, such as appliances, wiring, circuit breakers, and outlets. Never use water to extinguish class C fires because of the risk of electrical shock (water is a conductor of electricity). Class C extinguishers do not have a numerical rating. The C classification means the extinguishing agent is non-conductive.

Class D fire extinguishers are commonly found in a chemical laboratory. They are for fires that involve combustible metals, such as magnesium, titanium, potassium, and sodium. These types of extinguishers also have no numerical rating, nor are they given a multi-purpose rating, as they are designed for class D fires only.

Class F: fire extinguishers are designed for fires involving cooking oils and fats, like those found in a deep fryer.

And then there are also fire extinguishers which are designed for multiple types of situations, and these types are “AB”, “BC” and “ABC.”

The Right Extinguisher for Your Home

With so many fire extinguishers to choose from, selecting the proper one for your home can be a daunting task. In fact for some people, not knowing which kind to get is their biggest hurdle in getting one. So what is the best type for a typical home? The best choice for a typical home is an “ABC” type fire extinguisher that is designed for multiple types of fires.

And just as important as having a fire extinguisher is having it easily accessible in case of an emergency.

It is recommended to have at least one fire extinguisher on each floor of your home, and the most important places to have a fire extinguisher are in areas that are more susceptible to fire: your kitchen and your garage.

Kitchen: According to U.S. Fire Administration statistics, the kitchen is the place where fires most often start. Do not put the fire extinguisher near the stove as it will be out of your reach if the fire is on the stovetop. The best place to put the fire extinguisher is mounted by the door of your kitchen, so that you have will have easy access to it.

Garage: Because a garage is typically a place where flammable materials are stored, this is another place where you will want to have quick access to a fire extinguisher. And like the kitchen, the best place to store the extinguisher is mounted by a doorway.

Your fire extinguishers should be kept in plain sight where they can be easily reached in an emergency. Do not put them in closets, as this will cost you valuable time when you need it.

How to Use a Fire Extinguisher

Hopefully, you will never need to use your fire extinguishers. But if you do, just remember “P.A.S.S.”:

P: Pull the pin that is located in the handle. This pin keeps the handle from being accidentally squeezed and discharging the extinguisher.

A: Aim for the base of the fire, where the extinguisher can have the most effect on the fire.

S: Squeeze the lever at the top of the extinguisher, which will start to deliver the contents of the extinguisher.

S: And finally, be sure to sweep the direction of your spray from side-to-side across the base of the fire.

 

Originally posted at  http://www.petermuehlbronner.home-wizard.com/articleDet/art_fire_ext_choices